Guild of Food Writers awards, the winners
Another bumper year of great food writing and broadcasting
Hello Lemonistas,
Welcome to your latest edition of The Lemon Grove, in which we share the list of winners and finalists of the annual Guild of Food Writers Awards.
Food and drink writing is now an important part of the writing canon, studied at universities such as unisg.it and New York University, and covers the whole human experience. It encompasses family, memory, war and peace, community, politics, travel, recipes, and so much more. So, how do we celebrate some of the best-printed words and broadcast words?
At a glittering awards night held in London’s glamorous West End on June 12, a highlight of the Guild’s summer social calendar and held in the storied auditorium of the Royal Institution, hundreds gathered to celebrate the best in British food writing. The work of forty-five finalists across various categories, including print and broadcast media, was judged by a team drawn from the Guild’s membership. While I am a member of the Guild, I couldn’t attend this year’s event but have been lucky enough to attend several previous celebrations over the past years. But here is a list of this year’s winners for work published in calendar 2023. Congratulations to all the entrants and especially the winners. The judges’ comments were sourced from the awards programme, which was handed out on the night.
Best wishes
Bruce
FOOD PODCAST OR BROADCAST
WINNER Bitter/Sweet Podcast
“Jeremy’s Lunch with a Side of Kindness” Miller Libertine Presented by Natasha Miller, produced by Natasha Miller and Linda Debrah McSteen.
JUDGES COMMENTED: Original and memorable, the pleasures and joys of cooking and eating together are explored through the deeply-evocative food-memories of a successful restaurateur. The podcast is revealing and modest in scope as well as technically well organised. Miller does a fantastic job facilitating the conversation while letting her subject do the talking.
FT Food Revolution
“The London Restaurant that Changes Every Week” was produced and presented by Tim Hayward and Daniel Garrahan for the Financial Times.
JUDGES COMMENTED: This podcast places strong emphasis on the importance of the subject matter: chefs and their ways of working in an unfamiliar environment as a lesson in adaptability. A geographical tour-de-force based on a considerable amount of research. Technical skill and a high level of production is combined with in-depth interviewing by a skilful and knowledgeable host.
Lush Life Podcast
“How to make Mr Lyons Cocktails at Home with Ryan Chetiyawardana” Presented by Susan L. Schwartz, produced by Evo Terra.
JUDGES COMMENTED: Schwartz is really insightful: her line of interviewing delves into the background of her guest and understands where he’s heading. As a result, the episode is interesting throughout, even for those unfamiliar with the world of cocktails. The research is good, the talk relevant, the banter entertaining. Taste, flavour, happiness all make this podcast a great success.
INVESTIGATIVE FOOD WORK
WINNER Avocado Anxiety: And Other Stories About Where Your Food Comes From
By Louise Gray
Bloomsbury Publishing.
JUDGES COMMENTED: A charming, interestingly-written book that takes readers on a journey from seed to fruit, making an excellent case for us all to consider what we eat. Gray’s well-judged level of referencing reassures without overwhelming. Her journalistic instinct to question even the figures and facts which support her arguments furthers this sense of rigour.
Buy the book here.
Ravenous: How to Get Ourselves And Our Plant Into Shape
By Henry Dimbleby with Jemima Lewis
Profile Books.
JUDGES COMMENTED: “Ravenous” investigates the successes and failures of global food supply chains and makes a potentially complex and distant topic feel urgent, personal and digestible. Dimbleby decisively builds towards dual arguments that the food industry we rely on is reaching its expiry date and that change is not only necessary but possible.
Buy the book here.
How Do You Reduce A National Dish To A Powder? The Weird, Secretive World of Crisp Flavours
By Amelia Tait, The Guardian.
JUDGES COMMENTED: This article investigates the hidden world behind crisp flavours. An interesting, informative, and fun piece, that examines how brands create these extensive flavour profiles. From Lasagne flavour in Thailand to Beer & Rose in China, who knew that creating the perfect crisp flavour was such a technical and differentiated task?
SELF-PUBLISHED AWARD
WINNER Sam Lomas
For work published through Mailchimp: Field Notes
JUDGES COMMENTED: Judges loved this work and the easy accessibility of Lomas’ recipes. ‘There is absolutely nothing pretentious here - just a passion for food and a good old-fashioned newsletter with enticing food pictures,’ said one judge. ‘Just charming!’ said another, ‘An uncomplicated and delightful dash of slow living and a chance to reflect. Deceptively simple but flavour-packed recipes. A really lovely, heartfelt page.
Mark Diacono
For work published on Substack: Abundance, by Mark Diacono
JUDGES COMMENTED: Diacono brings something fresh and new to the table, he has every ingredient at his fingertips including nostalgia. He combines honest, expressive storytelling, with gentle humour and descriptions to transport you into his world. The recipes are gorgeously inventive, but still very achievable. One judge said, ‘A very lovely style - Diacono is enthused about the subjects he writes about.
Mike Warner
For work published on Scribehound, Substack and Squarespace: ‘A Passion for Seafood’
JUDGES COMMENTED: Warner lives up to his title of artisan fishmonger, an expert clearly committed to his passion for seafood. He maintains consistency and levels of excellence throughout his writing across a number of different platforms and styles. Judges were keen to learn more from an expert who writes such beautiful descriptive passages. ‘His writing ranges from authoritative and informative to slick and competent.’
DRINKS WRITING
WINNER Molly Codyre
For work published in Foodism
JUDGES COMMENTED: Judges enjoyed Codyre’s entertaining and informative writing style. Served up with infectious enthusiasm, Codyre tempted the judges to buy and try the drinks she writes about. On her entry, “Finding Sugarland” one judge said, ‘You could really imagine being on this humid, bustling adventure, getting to know the brand behind the rum and its island home.’
Joel Harrison
For work published in Club Oenologique Magazine
JUDGES COMMENTED: Harrison’s thought-provoking articles are short but punchy and demonstrate a sweeping depth of knowledge not just about drinks, but also about philosophy, music and popular culture. One judge commented, ‘Whether describing a martini crawl in London or Escoffier’s ketchup-ed bacon sandwich, his words paint a memorable picture.’
Henry Jeffreys
For work published in The Critic Magazine
JUDGES COMMENTED: Jeffreys has an evocative style and served up three very different entries, yet all were personal and relatable. From the memory-rich tale behind a wine label to his description of a walled garden vineyard, Jeffreys’ work is notably vivid. In “An Apple a Day” Jeffreys goes further, artfully combining both history lesson and drinking session.
RESTAURANT WRITING
WINNER Jonathan Nunn
For work published in Vittles.
JUDGES COMMENTED: The judges commented that Nunn’s elegant, evocative writing style is a joy to read. His pieces are diverse, impeccably researched and a beautiful mix of general food writing and specific restaurant reviews. His description of a South London chicken pop-up as ‘An analogue desire in a digital world’ made one judge crave rotisserie chicken in a whole new way.
Grace Dent
For work published in Feast, The Guardian.
Dent’s food writing straddles the pillars of travel, restaurant criticism and comedy. Her reviews come across as particularly balanced, acknowledging the weaknesses and foibles as well as praising the high points. Dent’s ability to take the reader on a walk down memory lane is second to none thanks to the personal anecdotes that she includes in each piece.
Tim Hayward
For work published in the Financial Times.
JUDGES COMMENTED: The sheer skill and effort involved in writing concise prose is often underestimated. Hayward is a master of it. His style is witty and urbane with a real attention to detail. One judge enjoyed the mix of food detail and story, saying that ‘Hayward’s description of a sausage roll “having pastry with more layers than a phone book” was a touch of brilliance.
FOOD MAGAZINE OR SECTION
WINNER Food, by National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Editor, Glen Mutel. Deputy Editor, Nicola Trup
JUDGES COMMENTED: A classic publication that has something for everyone with its engaging and informative content. The quarterly publication “Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK)” stands as a testament to excellence in culinary journalism thanks to its commitment to capturing the essence of time and place.
Feast, The Guardian
Editor, Tim Lusher
JUDGES COMMENTED: “Feast” feels very current and on trend. The heavily seasonal focus is wonderfully attractive. Judges enjoyed the way the magazine shares articles about the health associations around certain food and not just recipes. One judge said ‘Photography is attractive and draws our attention completely. Filled with just enough content to take your time reading each article or recipe, exactly what you want for a weekend read.
Pellicle
Editor, Mathew Curtis
JUDGES COMMENTED: “Pellicle” is filled with prime examples of how food writing can present the reader with an extensive panorama. Equally important are the perspectives covered. Whether personal, anecdotal, historical or current developments, all come together harmoniously. Judges enjoyed this wide-ranging and comprehensive editorial, saying ‘‘‘Pellicle” is full of good articles that I would happily read to the end.’
RECIPE WRITING
WINNER Mark Hix
For work published in The Telegraph Magazine
JUDGES COMMENTED: Hix boasts generous, approachable writing with a strong sense of seasonality, place and character. He wears his knowledge lightly, respecting tradition yet creating modern dishes that are eminently cookable for the reader, whom he never patronises. ‘Nothing is too fussy or complicatedly written. You get a sense of the man whilst his slow-paced life and calmness really shine through.
Martha Collinson
For work published in Waitrose Weekend
JUDGES COMMENTED: Collison is a ‘good young voice’ who has matured into a confident, creative writer. She displays a clear understanding of the need for good methodology yet with a personal, contemporary touch. One judge said, ‘A pin-point balance of technique with simple, executable steps that never feel over-laboured or superfluous. Her writing conveys a sense of care to ensure the reader achieves success.
Melek Erdal
For work published in Vittles and The Guardian
JUDGES COMMENTED: Erdal’s is a welcome and original voice that takes familiar classics and brings them alive through her evocative writing. Recipes are full of engaging family stories combined with a solid understanding and display of technique. One judge commented, ‘ You really get a sense of who she is with each recipe. She holds your hand through unfamiliar methods, such as butter clarifying, in a way that feels accessible on the first read.’
FOOD WRITING
WINNER Tim Hayward
For work published in the Financial Times
JUDGES COMMENTED: Hayward’s works all showed a deeply personal approach and heartfelt commitment. There was a genuine sense of experience and passion. The writing was not merely informative but engaging and drew readers into the culinary journey with anecdotes and insight that resonated. The captivating storytelling and critical analysis encourage a deeper appreciation for the complexities and nuances of food.’
Xanthe Clay
For work published in The Telegraph
JUDGES COMMENTED: The articles submitted showed a style that is friendly and approachable, making complex culinary concepts accessible to a wide audience. The writing encourages readers to embark on their own culinary adventures in a down-to-earth and practical way, showing that healthy eating does not have to be expensive, and that there are always substitutes to more expensive or specialist ingredients.
Rachel Roddy
For work published in The Guardian
JUDGES COMMENTED: With a skilful blend of nostalgia and Innovation, Roddy transports readers to the heart of Italian kitchens with personal narratives and cultural depth. Audiences are invited to savour not just the flavours, but the stories that accompany them. As a result, reading Roddy’s work is an incredibly vivid experience.’
NEWCOMER
WINNER Make Mine A Doubler, by Peter Gilchrist
JUDGES COMMENTED: Gilchrist has great potential in the Scottish food writing space and beyond. ‘A wonderful writer, you can really hear his voice. He is totally authentic and his writing flows, telling an interesting story, making us want more.’ Another judge added, ‘Fresh, funny writing backed up with a wealth of experience, he shows great grit and determination, but just needs that professional push to get the ball rolling.’
A Roman in Britain, by Emiliano Amore
JUDGES COMMENTED: ‘Amore has a light and breezy style. He has great energy and is to be encouraged.’ As highlighted by this quote, judges liked Amore’s personal approach that reflects his multi-cultural journey and his ability to adapt to, and embrace, London. Another judge declared that he is ‘A rebel chef who loves to share his experiences, cooking passion and willingness to embrace the moment.’
Say It With Flours, by Tat Effby
JUDGES COMMENTED: Very funny but also moving, Effby has great energy in her writing. One judge said, ‘Her persistence is admirable - a trait needed to succeed as a food writer.’ Another said, ‘Effby’s social media experience and the trials of her “Great British Bake Off” journey will provide a wealth of future stories. This, combined with her wonderful cartoons, make for a very commercial package, both original and refreshing.’
FIRST BOOK AWARD
WINNER Painting The Plate, by Felicity Souter
Prestel Publishing
JUDGES COMMENTED: Souter cleverly entwines the world of art and food to create this unique, page-turning book. “Painting the Plate” is eye-catching and clever, complete with stunning photography and tempting recipes. It’s a book to dip in and out of, reading anecdotes about great artists, their work, and passion for the food of their time. Much like visiting a great art exhibition, this book leaves us ravenous for more.
Buy the book here.
The Farm Table, by Julius Roberts
Ebury Press (Penguin Random House)
JUDGES COMMENTED: Whilst working under a head chef, Roberts learnt the importance of sourcing the finest produce, cooking simply and allowing ingredients an opportunity to shine. In “The Farm Table” he celebrates these ethos, interweaving recipes with stories about the provenance of his food. All are told with beautiful imagery.
Buy the book here.
Rice Table, by Su Scott
Quadrille (Hardie Grant)
JUDGES COMMENTED: The writing is emotional, honest and allows Scott to gently show us how to make friends with Korean food. As a Korean living in the UK, Scott understands the challenges of cooking Korean food in the British Isles and does a wonderful job of melding modern and traditional Korean techniques with a variety of ingredients.
Buy the book here.
SPECIALIST OR SINGLE SUBJECT COOKBOOK
WINNER Honey: Recipes From A Beekeeper’s Kitchen
By Amy Newsome
Quadrille (Hardie Grant)
JUDGES COMMENTED: With love and gusto, Newsome explodes the longstanding myth that honey is a generic sweetener while also explaining the importance of eschewing processed honey. The recipes, which were written with personality and warmth, really engaged the judges. Its ability to demonstrate how honey varietals affect finished flavour marked the Basque cheesecake as exceptional. A recipe for oak honey madeleines was as equally well-received.
Buy the book here.
Of Cabbages & Kimchi: A Practical Guide To The World Of Fermented Food
By James Read
Particular Books (Penguin Random House)
JUDGES COMMENTED: ‘A small but mighty powerhouse of a book,’ said one judge. The narrative content is exemplary, covering the history, culture, practicalities and usage of everything from yogurt and kombucha to sauerkraut and kimchi. Judges thought the book was scholarly in its approach; extremely useful and a pleasure to dip into or read from cover to cover.
Buy the book here.
Salt And The Art Of Seasoning
By James Strawbridge
Chelsea Green Publishing
JUDGES COMMENTED: Judges loved how this beautifully designed book reached beyond mere seasoning to embrace a whole world of curing, brining, preserving and even the art of using salt blocks. The nuances of different salts; their flavours, cultivation, status and usage, are illuminated in the well laid-out text. Judges relished the variety of recipes and techniques that allowed them to use salt to maximum effect.
Buy the book here.
DRINKS BOOK
WINNER Slow Drinks: A Field Guide To Foraging And Fermenting Seasonal Drinks
By Danny Childs
Hardie Grant
JUDGES COMMENTED: Judges were captivated by this gorgeous book: a perfect cocktail of autobiography, ethnobotany, foraging know-how and mixology, stirred together with a clear and natural writing style. Childs wears his stellar credentials lightly, enthusing (never lecturing) with his passion and knowledge. From the basics of fermenting, infusing and pickling to making complex drinks with nature’s bounty, this book is a delight.
Buy the book here.
Vines In A Cold Climate: The People Behind The English Wine Revolution
By Henry Jeffreys
Allen and Unwin (Atlantic Books)
JUDGES COMMENTED: Judges loved this engaging and original book. ‘Jeffreys whisked us away behind the scenes of the English wine industry, entertaining and informing us in equal measure with his bright, confident and often laugh-out-loud witty writing.’ Detailed, comprehensive and at times technical, he none-the-less held their attention with a strong narrative peppered with a cast of fascinating characters.
Buy the book here.
A Passion For Whisky: How The Tiny Scottish Island of Islay Creates Malts That Captivate The World
By Ian Wisniewski
Octopus Books
JUDGES COMMENTED: Judges loved this intensively researched book. bursting with expert knowledge. Its engaging and warmly written introduction and chapter openers entice readers to learn more about whisky made in this very special place. No technical stone is left unturned in descriptions of how the different distilleries on Islay make their spirits. Tasting notes will leave readers desperate to try them all.
Buy the book here.
INTERNATIONAL OR REGIONAL COOKBOOK
WINNER Frontières: The Food of France’s Borderlands
By Alex Jackson
Pavilion Books (HarperCollins)
JUDGES COMMENTED: Above and beyond a collection of stunning and tempting recipes from the regions of France, this book is quite simply an irresistible read. Each region and dish is supported by addictive text, providing insight into the delicious history of this remarkable country and its food and culinary relationship to its neighbours. Important and fascinating, this is truly a book to break down borders.
By the book here.
A Splash of Soy: Everyday Food From Asia
By Lara Lee
Bloomsbury Publishing
JUDGES COMMENTED: Lee has authored a vibrant, punchy, fun, bright and playful book that honours soy sauce and celebrates simple Asian home cooking. She writes in a voice that beckons us to begin cooking with ingredients we thought we knew while allowing us to see them with new eyes. “A Splash of Soy” is Asian food for a new generation, unfettered and joyful.
By the book here.
Brutto: A (Simple) Florentine Cookbook
By Russell Norman
Ebury (Penguin Random House)
JUDGES COMMENTED: The late Russell Norman takes us under the hood of Florentine/Tuscan cuisine, celebrating the simple ‘ugly but good’ food of the region’s homes and humble trattorias. “Brutto” is essential reading for anyone who wants to visit Florence, whether in real life or through the simple, uplifting recipes.
Buy the book here.
FOOD BOOK
WINNER Before Mrs Beeton: Elizabeth Raffald, England’s Most Influential Housekeeper
By Neil Buttery
Pen & Sword History
JUDGES COMMENTED: Buttery tells the important story of the woman who exerted a great influence on British cuisine but was to be overshadowed by Mrs Beeton. The author champions Mrs Raffald, rightfully restoring her to the status of culinary pioneer. One judge concluded, ‘We could all do with being a little more Raffald – such a trailblazing woman.
Buy the book here.
Hungry Heart: A Story of Food And Love
By Clare Finney
Aurum Press (Quarto)
JUDGES COMMENTED: A very personal book, Finney weaves together cooking, love, friendships and memories. Said one judge, ‘it caught me by surprise. It’s about why feeding ourselves, and others, plays such a big part in our lives.’ Another judge said, ‘I felt I was reading about my own life, it reflected so much of my own experiences.’
Buy the book here.
Food Of The Cods: How Fish And Chips Made Britain
By Daniel Gray
Harper North (HarperCollins)
JUDGES COMMENTED: The judges loved “Food of the Cods” for its focus on such a well-known part of the British diet, fish and chips. One judge enjoyed the way it ‘celebrates the regional idiosyncrasies and rich social history of a favourite food.’ With this book, Gray has put a national favourite on a well-deserved pedestal.
Buy the book here.
General Cookbook
WINNER The Secret Of Cooking: Recipes For An Easier Life In The Kitchen
By Bee Wilson
4th Estate (Harper Collins)
JUDGES COMMENTED: The recipes in this book are beautiful, mouth-watering and inspirational. But this book is not just a cookbook; each recipe comes with its own story about love and friendship. The emphasis on stripping away conventions so that cooking is fun and stress-free is wonderful. Original and beautifully written, it’s a book to read from cover to cover.
Buy the book here.
A Table Full Of Love: Recipes To Comfort, Seduce, Celebrate & Everything Else In Between
By Skye McAlpine
Bloomsbury Publishing
JUDGES COMMENTED: A well-thought-out, wonderfully written book full of gorgeous imagery and design. An exploration of the relationship between food and all kinds of love, the book is cleverly structured in sections such as “Comfort”, “Seduce” and “Spoil”. Beautiful, indulgent and inspiring, it’s full of dishes you’ll want to cook for your loved ones – and for yourself.
Buy the book here.
Winter Wellness: Nourishing Recipes To Keep You Healthy When It’s Cold
By Rachel de Thample
Bloomsbury Publishing
JUDGES COMMENTED: This exquisitely written book has recipes to rest and revive body, mind and soul through the dark months of the year. Beautifully styled and shot, the judges wanted to try every recipe. The information about health and nutrition adds an extra dimension without ever getting in the way of the book’s appetite-raising appeal.
Buy the book here.
Lifetime Achievement
Prue Leith
Probably best known for her time judging on The Great British Bakeoff TV show, Prue has also owned restaurants, run catering companies and founded the eponymous cooking school. She has published eight novels, a memoir, “I’ll Do Anything Once” (formerly, “Relish”) and 14 cookbooks. Her latest cookbook, “Bliss on Toast”, was published by Bloomsbury in 2022. Prue has had a deep involvement with education and the arts: she chaired the first of the companies charged with turning around failing state schools and was Chair of the School Food Trust, responsible for the improvement of school food and food education. Prue is a worthy winner and follows in the footsteps of people such as Elizabeth Luard, Anna Del Conte, Egon Ronay and Madhur Jaffrey CBE.
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BRUCE & THE LEMON GROVE'S EVENTS DIARY
Travel planning for 2024 is in the works for Seville, Menton, Turin (Slow Food’s Terra Madre), Liguria, and Barcelona, to name just a few!
Hosting & Cooking on the Demonstration Stage at:
Aylesford Farmers Market (every third Sunday of the month, 9.30am - 1.30pm)
Next market in Aylesford, Kent is on Sunday, June 17.
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Bruce McMichael
Writer, Podcaster, Event Host & Cook, Lemonista
Website: www.thelemongrove.net
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