Bahraini flavours and black limes land in rural Dorset

Bahrani-British chef Noor Murad and some recommendations for Shaftesbury, Dorset

Apr 23, 2025

Hello Lemonistas,

Welcome to the latest edition of The Lemon Grove newsletter. In this issue, we taste some recipes from the new book Lugma, by Noor Murad during a fun evening in the Dorset countryside. There are also suggestions for something to read, watch and cook.

One of the ingredients Noor swears by are black limes, the subject of this week’s Citrus 101 video.

With a fascinating blend of Bahraini and British heritage and a youth spent in both cultures, chef and recipe developer Noor Murad has cultivated deep and diverse culinary roots. Her recent work with the Ottolenghi empire, leading the Test Kitchen, and co-authoring the mega-selling series Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, has now culminated in Lugma, her first book published under her own name. The title, which translates to 'little bite', is a reflection of how her family encouraged her to eat as a young child. Indeed, her parents fondly recall that her first spoken word was 'food'.

I met Noor at a delightful book signing and cooking demo at Sorelle, an equally lovely café in the Dorset village of Motcombe, a few miles south of Shaftesbury. Noor was promoting Lugma and cooking several dishes for the crowd.

Sarah Rudder, owner of the thriving cookbook shop The Kitchen Table in Shaftesbury, organised the event. (Look out for The Lemon Grove newsletter on Thursday, May 1, for a special look at this brilliant outlet. Sarah also sells spices and locally made ceramics and cooking utensils, including cookware from Netherton Foundry's spun iron collection.)

Noor is known for her vibrant, fresh, and approachable cooking style, a delightful fusion of the Middle East's bold flavours and diverse culinary traditions. Her culinary background, which blends Bahraini, British, and broader Mediterranean influences, has given rise to a signature style that is both comforting and exciting.

After working as a chef for teams competing in Bahrain Formula 1 races, Noor gained catering experience in Germany and the US. Her gastronomic education led her to qualify from the prestigious Culinary Institute of America, and she later gained wider recognition, becoming a key member of Yotam Ottolenghi's Test Kitchen creative team.

Lugma is a delightful and innovative exploration of Middle Eastern flavours, blending this rich cultural heritage with a modern, accessible approach to cooking. The book presents a vibrant mix of traditional and contemporary recipes, showcasing the versatility of simple ingredients, like fresh herbs, spices, and grains, which are staples in her Bahraini upbringing.

At the book launch at Sorelle, we ate several dishes taken from Lugma. As a welcome appetiser, we had Dates with Tahini, Chilli and Salt (page 239 in the book). Halloumi with Spicy Olives and Walnuts (page 33) followed. Two more savoury dishes and one sweet plate followed. Firstly, we were served Pan-fried Tomatoes with Za'atar, Pine Nuts and Halloumi. We then had a bowl of Ful with Chickpeas and Tahini (page 40). We finished with Arab Mess (page 251), a bowl of sticky sweetness filled with berries, cardamon, cream, lime juice and zest, and Persian Candy Floss, known as sha'ar banat in Bahrain. Also known as 'girls' hair', this spun sugar adds pure sweetness and a tingling texture to the dish.

Images above show (clockwise from top left), Sarah (right) and Noor; seasoning the demo dishes; Arab Mess, and finally a plate with three dishes … Halloumi with Spicy Olives and Walnuts; Pan-fried Tomatoes with Za'atar, Pine Nuts and Halloumi and Ful with Chickpeas and Tahini. © The Lemon Grove

Sorelle is brought to life under canvas in a farmyard. A brilliant place and concept © The Lemon Grove

Shaftesbury in five food places and events:

The Kitchen Table (cookbook shop)
Sorelle (café)
Thursday Farmers’ Market (High Street)
Get your cheese from Carolyn and The Truckle Truck
Gold Hill Cheese Race (May 4^th, sign up here)
Popup bakery in The Grosvenor Arms hotel by At The Chapel (Thursday mornings).

Pictured above is cheesemonger Carolyn in The Truckle Truck, a converted 1969 Citroen HY van fondly referred to as Susie. We met during a judging session for the Great Taste awards, which was being held nearby.

Pictured below holding a sourdough loaf is Bruce, editor at The Lemon Grove, in the regular Thursday bakery popup, run by Bruton-based At The Chapel.

READ, WATCH & COOK

READ:

While over on iGlobe News, you’ll find my article reporting on the European Union giving the green light for mealworms to be used in food fit for human consumption.

WATCH: Nonnas

Released on May 9, this Hollywood film is loosely based on the life of Joe Scaravella, owner of the famed Staten Island, an orange ferry ride from Manhattan, New York restaurant Nonnas, where grandmothers (nonnas) are invited to work as chefs.

COOK: Grilled Green Beans with Lemon and Feta

Noor kindly give us permission to share this recipe with you. You’ll find it and many other delicious recipes in her newly published book, Lugma: Abundant Dishes And Stories From My Middle East.

SERVES 4, as a side dish

YOU WILL NEED:

450 gm (1lb) green beans, trimmed
1 tbsp olive oil, plus an extra 1 tbsp to serve
75 gm (2½ oz) roughly crumbled
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the lemon dressing

1½ unwaxed lemons
5 tbsp olive oil
1 onion finely chopped (180 gm, 6 ½ oz)
1 garlic clove, crushed
5 gm (1/8^th) oregano leaves, roughly chopped
5 gm ( 1/8^th) parsley leaves, roughly chopped
1 tsp maple syrup

METHOD:

Place a griddle (grill) pan over a medium-high heat (or use a large cast-iron pan). In a large bowl, toss the beans with the tablespoon of oil, ½ teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Once the pan is hot, add a third of the beans to the pan, spreading in a single layer, and cook for 5 minutes without turning. Carefully turn the beans over and cook for 3-4 minutes more or until charred and softened (don’t worry if they’re not perfectly charred). Transfer to a tray to cool, then continue in this way with the remaining beans. Keep the griddle pan on the heat.

For the dressing, first cut the lemon half into five 0.5 cm (1/4 in) rounds, discarding any pips. Grill for about a minute on each side, until browned but not overly charred. Transfer to a cutting board and finely chop them, skins and all.

Add 2 tablespoons of the oil to a medium frying pan (skillet) and place over a medium-high heat. Once hot, add the onion, turn down the heat to medium and cook until softened and lightly browned, stirring occasionally, about 12 minutes. Remove from the pan and set aside to cool to room temperature, then stir in the chopped grilled lemon, garlic, herbs, maple syrup, remaining 3 tablespoons of oil, ¼ teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Juice the remaining lemon to get 1½ tablespoons of juice and then stir this in too.

To serve, spread half the charred beans on a large platter, sprinkle with half the feta and spoon over half the dressing. Repeat with the remaining beans, feta and dressing and drizzle with the extra tablespoon of oil.

This recipe is taken from Lugma, Abundant Dishes And Stories From My Middle East by Noor Murad, published by Quadrille, £28. Use the following affiliate link to buy the book and support The Lemon Grove: buy the book.

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